I Need a Quote

This page is designed to help you make the right choice in respect to work on your trees.

In the first instance you will be requesting a quotation for work and of course a simple call to our office will be all you need to do to arrange for us to visit you and discuss your needs. However we suggest that you look at the Your Requirements section below which will help you (and us!) to make the process of advising and working on your trees more efficient.

Once you have contacted us we will agree a mutually convenient time to visit your property on site and discuss and specify work. Following this, usually within 3 or 4 working days you will receive a written quotation together with copies of our insurance, acceptance sheet and other relevant information.

On acceptance the work is booked in and carried out at an agreed time.

Invoicing of work follows completion and payment terms are 28 days from date of completion.

We generally book in work between 3-6 weeks ahead so to avoid disappointment, please let us know as soon as possible when you have decided to proceed with a job.

Your Requirements

Please select your requirements from the list below to take you to the relevant section where you will find more detailed information:

Items A – G

A) When to cut or trim

The following times are recommended as being best for hedge cutting or trimming

Leyland Cypress	May-August
Conifers (general)	May-August
Yew	August
Beech	August
Privet	May-August

Regardless of the above, the following points should be considered:

During Spring and into Summer, birds may be nesting in the hedge. To damage or disturb nesting birds is an offence. If birds/nests are discovered, we would need to cease working. If you are aware of the presence of nesting birds, please inform us.

To keep a hedge looking good, regular (usually annual) trimming is required. If you would like a regular service please let us know.

Due to the recent ‘working at height’ regulations, the methods used to cut hedges have, in some circumstances, changed. We are now obliged, under H.S.E. requirements, to use the safest method of access. This may involve the use of a Mobile Elevating Work Platform (M.E.W.P.) This may incur extra cost. We have no choice in this matter and will not attempt dangerous practices to achieve a cheap job.

More information: Contact Us or back to Your requirements

B) Methods of stump removal

If you intend to replant following the removal of a tree, it is preferable to remove the old stump, ideally by digging out entirely or if size or position prevent this, by grinding out.

When removing a stump the possibility exists of damaging underground services. PLEASE INFORM US IF YOU ARE AWARE OF ANY SERVIES (CABLES, GAS, WATER, ELECTRICITY) in the vicinity of the stump to be removed. We have a Cable Avoidance Tool (C.A.T.) and we can use this if in doubt.

Stumps can be treated to prevent regrowth but in general we prefer not to use chemicals if at all possible.

Digging (grubbing) out
Small stumps can be dug out using manual means, however larger stumps often require mechanical excavators (such as J.C.B.’s). Access would be required and ground disturbance may be considerable.

Grinding
Not as thorough as entire excavation but convenient and, as the stump is ‘chipped’ up, there is no large stump to remove from site and access is (usually) not a problem. We have 2 machines. The larger requires level unobstructed access of a minimum 36 inches wide and grinds stumps to an approx depth of 300mm and a smaller machine which requires only 26 inch access (and can be carried). This grinds out to a depth of 200mm.

Lateral roots are not usually removed unless agreed and specified.

When diseased trees are removed, we would advise removal of as much root material as practical and replacement trees should not be planted within at least 12 months.

More information: Contact Us or back to Your requirements

C) Do I want the stump removed. Yes No

The following situations might require that the stump(s) is/are removed.

You intend to replant new tree/shrub
You wish to lay a lawn or pave the area
You do not want to risk mower damage
The stump is diseased (and a risk to nearby trees exists)

D) Why thin or reduce? (Consequences of such operations)

Often our customers are unclear on the difference between thinning and reduction. The operations are best described as follows:-

Reduction
This is the process of pruning a tree to reduce its size whilst maintaining aesthetic appeal and shape and as natural appearance as is possible. It is very easy to reduce a tree badly. Down to Earth prides itself on high quality reduction work (see gallery) and such work on large trees is often highly skilled and complex.

Reduction is described in terms of a percentage so, for example, a reduction of 25% would constitute pruning branches by a quarter of their length, 35% a third and so on. The heavier a reduction, the less visually appealing or natural the tree will look.

When should I reduce?
Ideally when a tree is planted in the correct position in relation to its size, reduction is not necessary but the following situations may require reduction:

To increase light
To provide a view
To manage as a smaller tree
To reduce the weight on branches that might fail (e.g. Poplars)
Where the tree poses a structural risk to property

Thinning
This is the process in which branches are removed throughout the crown of the tree to reduce the DENSITY whilst retaining the overall SIZE. Again described in percentage terms.

We are often asked ‘What does my tree need’ – Put simply RARELY do trees need work. Usually the work we do is undertaken as a result of the owners/clients needs. It should be remembered that the removal of any live material from trees is harmful to a greater or lesser degree.

When should I thin?

To increase light
To reduce the risk of failure in high wind

Consequences of thinning/reduction

Reduction, and to a lesser extent thinning, will promote a flush of new growth as the tree tries to replace the ‘leaves lost’. Often the rapid growth is of a different visual character to the ‘natural habit’.

Heavy pruning can lead to decay

Repeat operations may be needed to maintain the tree in a safe condition.

Too much thinning or reduction can, in some circumstances lead to decline or death of trees (particularly if weak or under stress prior to works).

More information in: Section H

E) Problems and what to look for

The majority of problems are noticeable even to the layperson and take the form of die-back of parts of the crown, discolouration of foliage or death of all or part of a tree.

Some causes are obvious, e.g. fungal fruiting bodies (toadstools or brackets) growing on or near the tree.

Others are less obvious and require trained expert investigation.

More information in: Section H

F) Work on veteran trees

Work on very old trees raises a whole new set of problems and issues. Down to Earth has experience of the management of old and ancient trees and we would be very happy to discuss methods with you.

The following are crucial points when planning work on very old veteran trees

Bats
Bird nests
Other habitat issues
Phenology (timing of work)
Type of pruning cuts (e.g. coronet)
Extent and amount of pruning work in relation to vigour/condition
Safety
Preventative measures (e.g. cables)

More information in: Section H

G) Which tree or shrub

The decision as to which tree to plant is very much one of personal taste. We can advise and help with this. The key thing to remember is – when fully grown is it appropriate for the position?

It helps us if prior to discussing new trees you have perhaps visited a nursery, arboretum or garden and have an idea of what type of tree you like.

The following are characteristics that will help you with your choice.

Evergreen or deciduous?
Autumn colour?
Flowers/fruit?
Shape
Size
Foliage appearance
Density
Bark texture/colour
Exotic or native

Above all your choice of tree needs to be appropriate for its position.

More information: Contact Us or back to Your requirements